Mini MINI Mini!

Part 1 of the Engine change introduced the car, his dead engine and us getting to the point where we had to change the bolts holding the clutch slave cylinder on as they were too long and were fouling the flywheel. We attempted the first start on the engine and nothing happened…

This (final) part details our last bits of tickling, our lessons learnt and what tools we used.

It had taken us over a week from the time the car arrived to get the new engine running. Starting the car for the second time we left it for a few minutes to let the engine warm up. It gave us a chance to check for fuel, oil and water leaks. A minor oil leak from the oil return pipe and a small water leak from the top radiator hose were sorted by turning a nut and a screw. Everything seemed to be good and tight, no oil, fuel or water on the ground. What a result!

We removed the points enabled distributor and put the Lumenition system back in. Again, the car started with no problem and ticked over beautifully.

I had put the car in the garage on the Saturday evening and got it running in place in the garage. The next job was to use a timing light and set the timing accurately. I fitted the the timing light onto number one cylinder and went to start the car. Not even a click. The first thing through my head (after a couple of curse words) was the solenoid had given up again. Thankfully it was just a flat battery. We’d hammered it all week trying to get it to start.

Pushed out of the garage and jump started I connected the timing light again and then discovered that the sun was a little too bright to be able to see it. Arse. Do it by ear.

A quick trip round the houses suggested that everything was running well, the gearbox, clutch, engine and cooling system were all functioning properly. I was really happy with that. So, we were done.

Then Phil sold the car. Miffed me a little, but I’ll get over it. I had initially agreed to do this as Phil said he would keep the car for a few months before selling it. I didn’t really expect him to sell it twenty minutes after we got it running.

So, what did we learn:

1. The most important! Get all the tools together for the job before you start. It will save money on phone calls and petrol.
2. Like the tools, make sure you have all the parts you think you’ll need (preferably some you won’t think you’ll need too!) This includes top end gasket set, new engine mounts (might as well change them while the engine’s out!), hoses, solenoid, coil, condensor, dizzy cap, rotor arm, spark plugs, thermostat, water pump (if you think yours is at all dodgy.
3. If you’re gonna tip the engine at all(!) put the distributor in and bolt it into place. It will stop the dog gear moving.
4. Shake and stir the engine paint before applying. Although Phil stirred it there was still sediment at the bottom and it looked like he was putting poster paint on the engine.
5. There’s a warning on the timing light - switch off engine before disconnecting. Do it! I didn’t and got around 30,000 volts up my arm. I was bloody lucky it only gave my right arm a twitch for a couple of hours and it didn’t kill me or worse.
6. Getting off Hayling Island on a sunny Sunday afternoon in August can take 45 minutes. Remember this when you’re in a hurry.
7. I have a very twisted and unrelenting sense of humour. Ask Phil.
8. So does Scott.
9. Be patient.
10. Be logical. When you have eliminated everything else the fault must be in the one thing you haven’t checked. In our case, the timing.
11. Coca-Cola and cigarettes do not make for a good diet for eight evenings on the trot.
12. Have an understanding wife/girlfriend/boyfriend.
13. Have lots of knowledgeable friends to phone for advice.
14. Take that advice.
15. Enjoy it. It’s a great learning experience.

Tools we used (either in my collection or we borrowed)

Spanners. Lots of ‘em. Have at least two half inch spanners as well as a variety of other sizes.
Sockets. Metric and imperial 10mm and 7/16″ up to 1.5 inch/32mm.
Ball Joint Splitter. You will not be able to do an engine change without one.
Centre drift for the gear selector rod pin. This needs to come out before lifting the engine! We used an appropriate size allen key but this is by no means ideal.
Hammers.
Torque Wrench.
Flywheel puller (Thanks to Jeff).
long strong bar for extra leverage.
Engine Crane. Obviously! (thanks to Rat Boy)
Feeler guages (metric according to the Haynes Manual) for setting the gaps on the rockers and the spark plugs.
Wire brush for cleaning the engine/parts

There are other tools we used that I can’t remember right now. So, I hope you have enjoyed reading this little story, I would appreciate any tips, tricks or even your stories on this type of subject.

Oh, anyone want a set of hardly used Mini Sport 1.7:1 (Purple) Roller Tip Rockers? Built up and ready to bolt on. I’m looking for around £90 +postage for them.